Category — Jurlique

So this is the first of the promised reviews: Jurlique Herbal Recovery Eye Gel. I gave it a fair try. Three days. My companion gave it almost a whole week. Thus you’ll benefit from two unique experiences.

My companion and I come with different skin care needs. I am just about to step into my thirties. She’s crossed the fifty barrier. I’m looking for prevention and moisturizing. She’s looking for maintenance and wrinkle smoothing. We both have dry skin, but mine is way more sensitive. (In fact, if you know any one with more sensitive skin then mine, I’d like to meet them. That’s why I’m so obsessed with organic skin care and organic makeup — I figure my chances of having reactions are minimized.)

But let’s get to the point. Here is the review:

Product name:
Jurlique Herbal Recovery Eye Gel (formerly known simply as Eye Gel)

What and who is it for:
“Rebalance Oiliness, Dryness & Maintain Balance”. To be applied on the eye area. Day or night.

About the brand:
I already wrote a very extensive overview of Jurlique brand. Jurlique uses biodinamic and organic ingredients, which is why they are in the organic skin care category. Jurlique is a well respected brand. Jurlique is a premium priced brand. More details are in the previous post.

Price:
It is currently at $121 US at amazon.com and most online stores I searched for 30ml bottle. (But judging by how little you need per use — see below — this bottle will last for ages.)

Packaging:
It’s a glass pump bottle.

Reading the ingredients:
The new packaging (since the name change) have shown a few new ingredients such as PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride and various PEGs (PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-18 Glyceryl Oleate/Cocoate, PEG-20 Stearate & Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate). According to Jurlique, the ingredients have not actually changed from the past, but the “global norms” of listing ingredients have required them to lable this way now. Jurlique maintains that pegs are safe, but they are “striving to develop all new products to be free of PEGs”. I hope they strive faster…

Other claims (from the package):
“A potent botanical concentrate, rich in the living energy of arnica and eyebright which help to firm, brighten and renew the delicate eye area vitality”.
“Our herbs and flowers are gently tended and harvested by hand on our certified organic and biodynamic farms.”

Scent:
The scent is pleasant, and not all too strong. I found it reminiscent of field flowers.

Texture:
A very watery gel.

Our opinions/experiences with this eye gel:
My companions is very pleased with the product. She finds that the gel feels really “fresh” and “cool”. It absorbs really fast, so she is able to apply it as she is getting ready to go to work, and put on makeup right after. The makeup does not smudge. She finds the gel comfortable – her eyes are not watering and not swelling. The product is very economical – just a tiny bit is enough. In fact, she has already managed to stretch the trial pack to almost a week. Now, it must be added that she works in a very hot environment, therefore her concern was that a heavy cream would leak. This is not the case with this product. She is very satisfied that despite the heat, nothing is watering. And she sais that the wrinkles are smoothing out. Basically, I think she’s got sold on Jurlique. When I asked her what I should write, she was very adamant that I write something positive. And she is pretty picky, so that’s saying something.

My experience has been a little less euphoric. I agree that it feels “fresh” and “cool” and absorbs really fast. I also agree that it is very economical – I needed the amount equivalent to a nail-tip. But the first time I applied it, my eyes got just a bit irritated towards the end of the day. I couldn’t figure out if it was due to seasonal allergies, or the cream. So I gave it two more chances. The second time my eyelids didn’t get irritated, but neither did they get any “smoother”. The third time I used it I felt ok at the beginning, but then there was some kind of tightness of the lids. The way my skin feels after a shower. So my conclusion is that it does nothing to me at best, and is somehow tightening/drying to my eyes otherwise. I will not be investing in it, cause I don’t see the point. But, as I’ve said before – I am an extremely sensitive case.

Verdict:
If your skin is not overly sensitive, and you are looking for a light eye care solution for a hot summer day – this product is likely for you. Especially if you intend to put makeup on right after application. Of course, provided you can afford it. But if you have very sensitive eyes, try a sample first. No point in taking such an expensive risk. I believe that most stores that carry Jurlique have little sample packages. Whole Foods definitely does. So try it out, and then decide for yourself.

I have to admit, at first when I dived into the world of organic skin care and makeup, the term “biodynamic” left me completely buffled. It was highlighted on a few sites I checked, but to the best of my knowledge it was another term from the modern scientific mumbo-jumbo marketing world created just to attract my attention.

How wrong I was. The more I researched it, the more amazed I was by how little exposure this concept has had in main-stream North America.

And guessing that there are probably readers on this site who are not all too familiar with the term as well, I am creating this biodynamic post, just so I can link to it every time that it comes up in the future.

So buckle up, and let’s dive in.

Biodynamic – what is it?

The term biodynamic refers to a type of farming/agriculture. Sometimes it is simply shorthanded as BD. The method dates back to 1924 and is one of the original approaches to organized organic farming worldwide. It was founded by Rudolf Steiner, a philosopher, who established the spiritual movement of anthroposophy. (Rudolf Steiner is such a multifaceted figure, that it is impossible to summarize him in a few sentences. Thus I must respectfully send you to Wiki, if you would like to learn more about him and his teachings.)

Originating from a spiritual view of the universe, biodynamic farming regards the farm as a living organism.

The best way to envision this living organism approach is to think of a wild forest. The forest is a system with a high degree of self-sufficiency. It doesn’t need external input to sustain itself. It’s fertilized through recycling of organic material within its own system. The intrinsic biological and genetic diversity of the forest inhabitants prevents pest species from moving in. And the water is cycled through the system efficiently.

In the same way, biodynamic farming practitioners view a farm as a closed system. Sustainability and self sufficiency is the key. Thus most seeds and fertilizers are self produced. Working by hand is essential (for the living connection between human and earth) and sowing and harvesting are matched to the rhythms of nature. Harmony with the world and other organisms, regeneration instead of degeneration, and sustainability as opposed to depletion are the values that guide biodynamic farming.

Needless to say (but I’ll mention it anyways) that biodynamic farming does not use artificial fertilizers or pesticides. Instead the fertilizing preparation are made from farm-sourced materials.

Today biodynamics is practiced in more than 50 countries worldwide.

There is also a biodynamic certifying organization, Demeter International, who also hold the trademark to the word biodynamic. Demeter certification is the oldest traditional organic certification in Europe and is regarded as the highest grade of organic farming in the world.

These are its typical logos (though there are some other variations within specific country markets):

Sample of cosmetics brands that use biodynamic ingredients:

Dr Hauschka

Jurlique

Note: if you want to go directly to overview, scroll down a bit, till you see “Jurlique - Brand Overview” heading.

Today I’ve made the most exciting trip to Whole Foods, with full intention of quickly buying an eye-cream. I was going to make an ultra quick choice. But after an hour of agitated discussion with my companion and the sales girl, I was still standing glued to the skin-care isle floor, paralyzed by indecision. (I’m always fussy about eye-creams, as my eyes rebel against almost everything I try. So I don’t particularly cherish the idea of spending fifty dollars for a tiny jar that could make me look like Dracula’s long lost sister.)

Sensing that we were going nowhere, the frustrated sales girl gave both my companion and I samples of reputation-wise deserving eye creams: “Daily Revitalizing Eye Cream” by Dr. Hauschka, and “Herbal Recovery Eye Gel” by Jurlique. Four cute little patches, completely free.

Both my companion and myself have agreed to try them out, starting with Jurlique. First thing tomorrow. And I intend to write an extensive review, which hopefully will not include swollen eyes, fallen lashes, or x-ray vision…

But until that time, I figured I’ll do some more homework about Jurlique (since I’ve already tried Dr. Hauschka in the past, I wanted to know more about the alternative).

Here is what I found out:

Jurlique – Brand Overview

Jurlique International Pty. Ltd. is an Australian based company, that was founded in 1985 by Dr. Jurgen Klein, who has a PhD in Chemistry and a Naturopath Qualification. It manufactures and markets high-end natural-based skin care and aromatherapy products and herbal medicines in 20 countries via 30 or so company-owned concept stores plus a further 5000 retail outlets. (source: smart company)

Jurlique uses organic and biodynamic ingredients in it’s formulas. The company owns two farms spanning over 165 acres in South Australia, where they grow over 35 different varieties of plants and flowers. 95% of the herbal ingredients used in their formulations are from these biodynamic farms. The balance of herbs, such as Arnica and Witch Hazel, cannot be grown in South Australia, so they are imported from certified organic farms.

Jurlique uses bio-intrinsic methods to get the plant extracts. When asked what it ment, Dr. Klein explained:

“we are very Biodynamic. ‘Bio’ is the organic part, ‘dynamic’ is the energy part” It relies upon potentising. We use an ancient Spagyric method from the middle ages, written down first in 1715. We call this the “Bio-intrinsic” method. With this method, the plant material is steam distilled to gain the volatile substances, followed by a percolation process to produce the liquid extracts, and the remains are then ashed to produce the vital trace elements. All substances derived from these three separate processes are then reunited to produce an extremely potent plant extract.”

(you can read a full interview with the founder at TMOrganics: )

The company’s guiding philosophies include naturopathy, alchemy, anthroposophy, aromatherapy, and herbal medicine. They are focused on preserving the “life force” of the plants they use. This is a quote from Jurlique’s official site:

“life comes from life. The soil is alive. Plants and flowers are living. Life is ever-present and recurring. That life is in our products. Our products are very much alive, the moment that they touch your skin. Life from life.”

As you may remember from my previous writing this philosophy is close to my heart.

The only issue I’ve found about Jurlique, is that it has gotten itself into trouble with the Australian Federal Court, and in February of 2007 it was fined $3.4 million for resale price maintenance. I.e. they “encouraged” the resellers to maintain a certain price level. I don’t think this is a sign of anything with the product. But it does somewhat explain the high prices. And made me really appreciate the “freeness” of the samples.

Lest anyone thinks any different, Jurlique is a successful business. Businesses are there to make money. They are trying to make more money, just like everyone else. They don’t want their products to go down in price, cause that would undermine the “premium” image of the brand. The only reason you and I have heard about Jurlique, is because of it’s premiumness. It’s a marketing strategy. Every business has one. I’m saying this as a business school graduate, which I am. (Which also explains my obsessive research into financial data of companies I discover – and I didn’t find any financials on Jurlique… I did try…)

Were they right about how they went about doing it? I don’t know. I’m just presenting what I found. I don’t demonize people for wanting to make money. But it does serve well to remember that not everything a company “says” on its official page necessarily reflects everything it “does”.

But for now I’m still quite excited about trying out the samples. I haven’t heard anything negative about the products. So I’ll choose to believe that when Dr. Klein wears his “herbal” hat, he is much more focused on making a quality product, then on what price it can be sold at. So stay tuned for the reviews.

Update: Jurlique Herbal Recover Eye Cream Review is now posted.

Second Update: Dr. Hauschka Daily Revitalizing Eye Cream Review is now posted.